Heating pad or coil for solving spring extremes
Author of solution (idea): Ondřej Hercog and Karel Kučera
Tested in practice: ANO – tested in the 2021 season and in winter 2021-22
Test results: Very good results
The group of breeders for whom the aid is suitablegiven the presence of 220V rating = at your own risk
Justification An attempt to create a regulated heating system with a thermostat that will prevent the nest from getting too cold in the spring months, but at the same time will not heat when it is not necessary = simulation of conditions in the country.
Note: The solution is one of the variants for improving the thermal comfort of the bumblebee nest, which the Bumblebee PLUS group successfully tested.
Last updated: 11/2/2022
Heating bumblebee boxes (bumblebee nests) – an introduction to the subject
We would like to point out explicitly, however, that this is a solution which uses 220V voltage, so we cannot recommend it.
If someone uses our experience, they do so at their own risk.
Heating of the comb with a heating plate and temperature control
Materials used
- Heating board – in our case Terra MAT HapPet 14×15 cm, 220V power
- Digital thermostat (-50 to +110°C) XH-W3001 220V
- Terminal block (EM)
- Industrial plastic box protection at least IP54 (transparent / opaque)
– dimensions at least 100 x 100mm, height at least 60mm - Cable gland PG 9 cable gland
- Power cable 220V rubber (plug)
- Double-sided adhesive tape (high quality)
For external distribution, we also used:
- Extension cord rubber – IP44 and
- Extension cord – IP44
Notes
- This heating mat is used because its surface temperature does not exceed 35°C, thus not endangering bumblebees even with direct contact; other mats of the same power output, as well as heating cables, reached higher surface temperatures.
We got her on https://allegro.pl/ - The 220V digital controller is commonly available on the internet, with prices varying by multiples... as is the delivery time. They also have other power supplies, this one is 220V.
- plastic box with IP54 protection and a transparent lid, but its price is higher (here 250 CZK), there are multiple suppliers and prices vary
- We were looking for products with an IP54 protection rating, meaning protection against dust ingress and splashing water from all angles
- Rubber-sheathed robust cables were used as weather-resistant, we didn't skimp here
HapPet Terra MAT 14 x 15 cm Heating Mat 220V
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
XH-W3001 Digital Thermostat 220V
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Plastic enclosure IP54
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Cable gland PG 9
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
220V rubber power cable
Photo: manufacturer
EM terminal block
Photo: manufacturer
Rubber extension cord – IP44
Photo: manufacturer
Extension cord 4 sockets – IP44
Photo: manufacturer
Completion
Test installation
- We tested the connection „dry run“, thanks to which we found an error in the controller's description.
- Comrades from China made a mistake and swapped the labels – reading the paper manual solved it
- After the correction, everything worked... phew
Heating plate diagram
Source: O. Hercog 2022
Connecting the thermostat and heating plate
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Digital thermostat – rear side (incorrect labels on the controller)
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Installation box
- The box was drilled with holes for grommets
- We used 3 cable glands to ensure the cables are well sealed (they are sealed by tightening the gland).
- The openings are located on the bottom of the box so that water does not leak in (see photo)
- The thermostat is stuck on with double-sided adhesive tape; the same tape was used to stick a plastic washer inside the box, so that the mounting lugs on the bottom of the box could be preserved.
Thermostat gasket
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
The underside of the thermostat with double-sided adhesive tape
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Assembly
- The heating plate had a plug on the end, we cut that off but didn't shorten the cable.
- We have treated the cable ends (tinned the cut ends) where necessary.
- We threaded the cables through the grommets
- Wired into the terminal block according to the approved diagram
Thermostat connection
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Thermostat connection
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Completion of assembly
- We tidied the cables.
- They tightened the grommets to seal the cables
- They cut a piece out of the plastic board and covered the wiring
- According to the instructions they set
– upper temperature (heating switches off)
– lower temperature (heating switches on) - They verified the functionality
- We closed the box with a lid and screwed it shut.
- If you have a bag of silica gel (a moisture absorber), put it in the box before closing it.
- Don't make unnecessary holes in the box, so it seals well
- Mounting holes can be found on the bottom.
Thermostat in a box – Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Thermostat in a box
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Fitting the regulator to the recoil pad
- We disconnected the top board and placed it in a nook on the chosen wall – further away from the entrance pipe’s opening.
- We ran the power cable out through a modified ventilation opening. We use on the ulcers Ventilation from HT pipe, you just needed to create a recess for the power cable and also for the sensor cable.
- We connected the power cable to the regulator
- They've run the sensor into the hive.
- We screwed the box with the controller to the joist using 2 screws so that it wouldn't obstruct the closing of the roof.
Note
- The regulator under voltage lights up and shows the temperature in the hive, so we put the box on the side wall of the hive.
Regulator in a box on the wall of the hive
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Regulator in a box on the wall of the hive
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Assembly of the heating plate, sensor, and cables
- For assembly we used Large drawing pins, for which we placed the cables and the board – without piercing
- Heating plate was mounted on the wall so that the lining then completely covers it
- Careful hotplate must not be placed at the bottom Could it dry out the fruit, if the mother started building a nest on it
- Cables we led it so that it was easy to to tape The silver For everything
- Temperature sensor we have placed on the hanger from a stronger wire – see Pavlína Krčová's idea.
- Into the hole Ventilation We deployed Heat exchanger pipe, ...sealed leaks with silicone
Note
- The sensor should be located in the centre of the airspace between the roof and the lining.
- We used a copper wire, it was then easy to adjust the sensor's position
- In the photographs, the cables are not taped down so that you can see how we routed them.
Heating plate and temperature sensor
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Heating plate and temperature sensor
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Attaching the heating plate with pins without puncturing
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Temperature sensor
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Thermostat temperature setting
In practice, we found this setting to be effective:
- lower temperature to 4 – 6°C – at this temperature the thermostat will switch on and The board is heating up
- high temperature 8 – 10°C – at this temperature, the heating Turn off
These temperatures seemed optimal to us and in praxi se osvědčily.
A larger temperature difference means greater fluctuations, and we do not recommend this difference between the upper temperature., the difference of up to 4°C is according to tests Optimal. In our case, the temperature was set at 6 – 8°C
Reasoning
If the nest is in the ground/in a wall, the temperature there won't drop much due to a short decrease in external temperature, and the nest won't freeze.
In the enclosure, the heating turns on when the temperature drops and the temperature moves within the set range. If the ambient temperature exceeds the upper set temperature, the heating switches off and the enclosure behaves according to how well it is insulated against higher temperatures.
Thanks to the small difference between the lower and upper temperature in the hive, there are no fluctuations and sharp temperature changes. The conditions are approaching natural conditions, and that was our goal.
As we wrote above, we don't see the point in heating the hive to a higher temperature. The mother should behave according to the outside temperature. If it is cold outside and there is no food, there is no point in activating her with unnecessary heating.
Of course, if it's cold outside and she can't fly, it's good to cautiously Introduce solids. You can read about it HERE
Solution tests
The solution was successfully tested on 4 ulcers in the 2021 season.
In all the ulcers equipped in this way, mothers were settled in the spring. Thanks to the regulated heating ice left outdoors even when temperatures dropped below 0°C, even if it snowed.
Mothers were given a complementary feed in the form of a sugar solution. All nests survived and developed successfully..
At the turn of 2021-2022, we carried out further tests – on empty ulcers, without bumblebees.
We incorporated several types of ulcers into the test, only one of which had a solution with a heating plate and regulated control (described above).
Temperature measurement kit
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Measuring temperatures in ulcers
Photo: O. Hercog 2021
Results of tests in winter 2021-2022
Measurement conditions
- The frame with thermal insulation as per our modifications, described, was used HERE
- The controller was set to heating in the range of 6-8 °C
- The controller sensor was at the intended height above the lining (the hive body was empty – without lining)
- The measuring sensor was about 20cm lower, in the intended centre of the lining – because of this, the temperatures are a bit different
- Temperatures were measured every 5 minutes for almost 3 months.
- Data collection via DataLogger XXXX
Results as seen in the attached graph.
Graph 1 Description
- The grey curve is the outdoor temperature
- The blue curve is the temperature in the utility room with heating.
Summary:
The temperature in the hive did not fall below 5°C, not even when the outside temperature was -6°C
Under these conditions, a power output of 5W was sufficient to prevent the hive from freezing, even during times of frost and snow lying on the hive.
Graph 1 – Measurement of temperatures in a beehive with a 5W heating plate and XH-W3001 220V digital thermostat
O. Hercog measured
Graph 2 shows a time slice from the same measurement.
Here it can be seen that The regulator maintained the temperature within the desired range.
Likewise, it can be seen here how the temperature in the hive mirrors the outside temperature if the heating is switched off after reaching the upper limit. However, thanks to the good properties of the hive, the temperature change is not so rapid.
Figure 2 – Measuring temperatures in the hive with a 5W heating plate and XH-W3001 220V digital thermostat
O. Hercog measured
Graph 3 is the same measurement.
Only are highlighted here as well Temperature profiles in ulcers of different types:
- Commercially available shock absorber (low volume)
- Commercially available shelter with simple walls
- Commercial double-walled unit
- etc.
All ulcer types copied the outdoor temperature. Rate of change ofcorresponded to thermal insulation properties and thermal inertia This cannot be distinguished on this graph layout; we will address the topic elsewhere.
Only a shock with a heating plate and regulation prevented the hive and the intended nest within it from freezing. Under such conditions, if there were a mother in the hive and she had her nest in the lining, she would endure for some time with food in the nesting chamber.
Mothers build a very small nesting chamber in the first phase so they have a chance to cope with temperature fluctuations. However, this isn't always enough. But if it were in a hive without heating, it probably wouldn't be able to maintain the brood at a sufficient temperature for several days with temperatures around 0°C.
Graph 3 – Temperature measurements in a beehive with a 5W heating plate and XH-W3001 220V digital thermostat – comparison with other beehives – Measured by Ondřej Hercog
Conclusion
The stated refThe solution proved functional. Initial concerns regarding Regulator lifespan they dispersed – thanks remained well-sealed in the box All year round outside unharmed.
In our case, this solution will allow us to leave occupied beehives outside without worry down to temperatures of -10°C
The only disadvantage and risk is the presence of 220V voltage. Because of this, it is not possible to offer this solution as a universal solution and its use is at your own risk.